fIlmstIl
"film style" // a tour of overlooked cinematic themes, styles, sounds, and moods from mainstream and underground flicks
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The Yeehaw Revolution: Women Who Wear Pants When They're Not Supposed To - Sigourney Weaver and Patricia Arquette in 'Holes' (2003)
The Warden's wardrobe screams bad bitch that takes no shit: stiff, no stretch, straight leg Levi's or Wranglers, a thrifted button down, a leather belt with a homemade belt buckle, and cowboy boots she's had since she was 21. There's a flashback scene when we see the Warden as a girl, maybe around 11 or 12. She's wearing the same sort of outfit: blue jeans, a button down, and cowboy boots and hat (alluding to the fact that she's the type of gal who will never change her style and will die wearing those same cowboy boot because, you know, if it ain't broke...). The wild red hair, the silver hoops, the fascination with her nails (rattlesnake venom makes them sparkle you know), and the feminine choices for shirt wear all make her look like she's comfortable with her feminine and masculine sides. She doesn't have anything to prove, she just IS. We don't ever see much about the Warden's personal life, not like we do with Kate Barlow. We see the blip of her childhood: digging holes in the middle of the desert with her grandfather, hell bent on finding the buried loot from Barlow. We see her home for a little while, also obsessed with Kate Barlow, full of vintage wanted posters and vintage furniture that's probably been in her family for years. And her car, that was her grandfathers. A vintage Cadillac of some sorts, maybe. But that's exactly it: vintage. Hand-me-down. She is her family. She doesn't feel the need to buy new clothes (not like she really can, she's in the middle of the desert at Camp Green Lake). She doesn't replace or renew, she just uses everything up until maybe one day it falls apart. There's something admirable about that: only wearing what you've got and what you've had and never thinking about anything else. She is sustainable, much like her favorite outlaw Kate Barlow: wearing the same stuff, day in and day out and not leaning into the female stereotype of having 100 outfit changes and too many clothes that they'll never wear. She's what we like to call a rough and tumble broad.
This movie struck a cord within me as a kid. So much that I read the book over and over afterwards. My edition of the book is hammered to say the least. Besides the storyline and fun, entertaining characters, I always felt a strong attraction to Patricia Arquette as Kissin' Kate Barlow in the film. I just thought she was so damn cool. She went from a sweet, innocent, and madly-in-love school teacher to one of the most notorious outlaws ever - male or female. I had an intense interest in fashion and clothing as a child (and watched so many movies - probably why I felt compelled to dump my musings here) and I always found Kate Barlow's wardrobe one of the more fun costumes in film that I'd witness during my childhood. The story behind her wardrobe switch relative to her character change is obvious: whites and pinks and neutrals as school teacher Kate and then a suggestive, red saloon gown when she kills her first victim. We almost never see her wear skirts again - until the moment she dies when she wears a tattered skirt and the same black bowler hat she stole from the first men she robbed. Kate's pants are evident: she's a woman out for revenge, why would she be wearing a skirt or a dress anymore - although that would be just as cool. However, the appeal of Kissin' Kate Barlow comes from a combination of the icy blonde hair and Patricia Arquette's soothing, feminine voice that contrasts her aggressive, gun wielding, pants-wearing persona. But is it a "persona"? Or is the outlaw Kissin' Kate Barlow Kate Barlow's authentic version of herself? It's who she presumably spends more of her life as; who she dies as. It's through the love of her life, Sam, that she is motivated to become the notorious outlaw. She becomes comfortable in her new life, thriving murdering men who have wronged someone, somewhere at some point and leaving a trade mark that is so undeniably feminine it hurts. The last time we see Kate, she's running on empty. She's still wearing the tan and white button down we first see her in and she has the black bowler hat from her first victim. Much like her admirer the Warden, she doesn't have a need for a wardrobe change. She's too busy raising hell.
The Yeehaw Revolution: Women Who Wear Pants When They're Not Supposed To - Susan Sarandon and Geena Davis in 'Thelma and Louise' (1991)
The Yeehaw Revolution. I blame Kacey Musgraves, Kylie Minogue's recent album Golden, and Cardi B in this get up. It's "country music" for dummies. Cowboy boots, but make it fashion. Wranglers, but make it fashion. It's a gateway drug for people, like me, who can't (and won't) commit to the full on cowboy look. Just some pieces here and there: a rugged jean, a big buckled belt, a Western-style boot. Maybe some big hair. But also: GLITTER. DIAMONDS. DESIGNER.
What is it about this resurgence of the country diva? We're currently in the beginning days of the early-Millennium comeback (I know). And with it comes the Yeehaw Revolution. Cow print nails are happening, Acne's fall/winter 2018 campaign happened, the Saint Laurent spring/summer 2019 collection is happening. Some say it's a re-reclamation of Americana. With our congested political climate, there's a lot of debate on who is American? or what is American? This article from Man Repeller dives into the "yeehaw agenda" of black girls wearing western wear. What's more patriotic than dressing like the societal ideal of "an American": the cowboy. A similar movement happened at the turn of the century pre-and post-9/11 when an all too familiar political climate was stifling the air. Thus, the revolution: a rotation of similar thoughts from 20 years ago. Without blaming the political air, things seem to return every 20-some years anyway. This time, instead of low rise jeans and a Von Dutch hat, it's a pair of high waisted, vintage Levi's and a Saint Laurent cowboy hat. An upgrade.
Women who wear pants when they're not supposed to. I suppose what qualifies a character's wardrobe for this examination is an obvious rebellion against the social norms of women's wear. Is there a switch from dresses to pants? Is there an overt display of skin? Is the character out of place in her environment as a woman and therefore dresses to equalize herself with her male peers? What also qualifies a gal for this examination is a less obvious version of western wear. I'm excluding actual cowgirls who don't depict a switch from a skirt-girl to a jeans-girl. These ladies wear pieces you and I would wear (but make it western). It's a new norm: women wearing pants. Or, better yet, women wearing clothes they actually want to wear and not what they are supposed to wear.
** I've also included a playlist (of course) of some of my favorite country-pop fusion babes.
Part one of the Yeehaw Revolution isn't exactly a highly embellished version of a cowboy get up (minus Thelma's jeans that still have some bedazzle around the hip) but the mindset is there: women who wear pants when they're not supposed to. Actually, it's really the opposite of the glitter and glitz of Kacey Musgraves and Kylie Minogue. It's stripped back and bare; jeans and a t-shirt, leaving the lipstick and diamonds behind and leaving the attitude exposed.
Thelma and Louise's transition from housewife and diner girl to full on female fugitives is clear just from examining from their wardrobe. We go from head scarves, skirts, and lipstick to windblown hair, desert dirt everywhere, and rugged denim in just over two hours. It's an obvious "fuck you" to women's wear. As soon as things start to go a little bit south, the skirts get kicked to the curb and the lipstick is non-existent. They are no longer girls. They use their clothes as a part of their revenge tour. I am your equal, they say. They are not supposed to be wearing pants. They're good, proper, southern women, damn it! Labeled as a housewife and a diner girl, two very stereotypically feminine jobs, Thelma and Louise reject their past lives as they drive further away. As they cruise across the American southwest, they come into themselves. "Maybe I found my calling", Thelma says riding on a high after robbing a convenient store. As they have personal breakthroughs, they subconsciously realize they don't need all of that nonsense: head scarves, lipstick, ruffles, frills. All they need is the road and, ultimately, each other. This is the call of the wild. There's a scene after Louise loses her $6,000 in savings and she sits and pouts in the car. She tries to put on her lipstick to maybe feel better, to maybe make herself look more presentable. But as soon as she looks at herself in the mirror, she tosses the tube out the window. Forget it. "You gotta stop being so open, we're fugitives now, right? Let's start behaving like that." And dressing like one too: stolen denim shirts, dirty graphic tees, and all.
There's a lot of sharing garments in Thelma and Louise as well. Thelma wears Louise's denim jacket and her black bedazzled jacket. Louise wears bits of Thelma's ripped off sleeves as neck ties (not just an accessory but as a way to keep cool). The sisterhood of the traveling desert wear. I suppose most of what makes this edition of the Yeehaw Revolution special is the utility of these women's clothes and the bond Thelma and Louise share. Girl friends share clothes, especially when on the road and on the run. We can't worry about outfit changes and appearances. Throw on my jean jacket and let's go. Maybe that's really where the revolution is coming from: no need for dresses and skirts, they just get in the way. We still have a lot of work to do. Jeans are just better for slinging your leg over the side of a Cadillac, anyway.
What is it about this resurgence of the country diva? We're currently in the beginning days of the early-Millennium comeback (I know). And with it comes the Yeehaw Revolution. Cow print nails are happening, Acne's fall/winter 2018 campaign happened, the Saint Laurent spring/summer 2019 collection is happening. Some say it's a re-reclamation of Americana. With our congested political climate, there's a lot of debate on who is American? or what is American? This article from Man Repeller dives into the "yeehaw agenda" of black girls wearing western wear. What's more patriotic than dressing like the societal ideal of "an American": the cowboy. A similar movement happened at the turn of the century pre-and post-9/11 when an all too familiar political climate was stifling the air. Thus, the revolution: a rotation of similar thoughts from 20 years ago. Without blaming the political air, things seem to return every 20-some years anyway. This time, instead of low rise jeans and a Von Dutch hat, it's a pair of high waisted, vintage Levi's and a Saint Laurent cowboy hat. An upgrade.
Women who wear pants when they're not supposed to. I suppose what qualifies a character's wardrobe for this examination is an obvious rebellion against the social norms of women's wear. Is there a switch from dresses to pants? Is there an overt display of skin? Is the character out of place in her environment as a woman and therefore dresses to equalize herself with her male peers? What also qualifies a gal for this examination is a less obvious version of western wear. I'm excluding actual cowgirls who don't depict a switch from a skirt-girl to a jeans-girl. These ladies wear pieces you and I would wear (but make it western). It's a new norm: women wearing pants. Or, better yet, women wearing clothes they actually want to wear and not what they are supposed to wear.
** I've also included a playlist (of course) of some of my favorite country-pop fusion babes.
Part one of the Yeehaw Revolution isn't exactly a highly embellished version of a cowboy get up (minus Thelma's jeans that still have some bedazzle around the hip) but the mindset is there: women who wear pants when they're not supposed to. Actually, it's really the opposite of the glitter and glitz of Kacey Musgraves and Kylie Minogue. It's stripped back and bare; jeans and a t-shirt, leaving the lipstick and diamonds behind and leaving the attitude exposed.
Thelma and Louise's transition from housewife and diner girl to full on female fugitives is clear just from examining from their wardrobe. We go from head scarves, skirts, and lipstick to windblown hair, desert dirt everywhere, and rugged denim in just over two hours. It's an obvious "fuck you" to women's wear. As soon as things start to go a little bit south, the skirts get kicked to the curb and the lipstick is non-existent. They are no longer girls. They use their clothes as a part of their revenge tour. I am your equal, they say. They are not supposed to be wearing pants. They're good, proper, southern women, damn it! Labeled as a housewife and a diner girl, two very stereotypically feminine jobs, Thelma and Louise reject their past lives as they drive further away. As they cruise across the American southwest, they come into themselves. "Maybe I found my calling", Thelma says riding on a high after robbing a convenient store. As they have personal breakthroughs, they subconsciously realize they don't need all of that nonsense: head scarves, lipstick, ruffles, frills. All they need is the road and, ultimately, each other. This is the call of the wild. There's a scene after Louise loses her $6,000 in savings and she sits and pouts in the car. She tries to put on her lipstick to maybe feel better, to maybe make herself look more presentable. But as soon as she looks at herself in the mirror, she tosses the tube out the window. Forget it. "You gotta stop being so open, we're fugitives now, right? Let's start behaving like that." And dressing like one too: stolen denim shirts, dirty graphic tees, and all.
There's a lot of sharing garments in Thelma and Louise as well. Thelma wears Louise's denim jacket and her black bedazzled jacket. Louise wears bits of Thelma's ripped off sleeves as neck ties (not just an accessory but as a way to keep cool). The sisterhood of the traveling desert wear. I suppose most of what makes this edition of the Yeehaw Revolution special is the utility of these women's clothes and the bond Thelma and Louise share. Girl friends share clothes, especially when on the road and on the run. We can't worry about outfit changes and appearances. Throw on my jean jacket and let's go. Maybe that's really where the revolution is coming from: no need for dresses and skirts, they just get in the way. We still have a lot of work to do. Jeans are just better for slinging your leg over the side of a Cadillac, anyway.
Film Countdown: What Makes a Good Club Scene?
I'm a sucker for a good club scene in a film. Who isn't? It gives you the glitz and the glamour and the drama without actually being surrounded by a bunch of sweaty and intoxicated people. When I was a teenager I loved them because I always wanted to go clubbing but never had any way to. So of course I lived vicariously. Now, after having been to a good amount of different types of clubs and lounges and dives, analyzing a supreme club scene in a film is much easier. And a little more fun with some experience behind me. A club scene not only works as a superficial anecdote within the film's story line but can supply some of the most important moments in a film. For example, in The Social Network, Sean Parker gives Mark Zuckerberg the inspirational kick he needs ("I'm CEO, bitch!"). Or in Bend it Like Beckham, Jess walks away from a dance between Jules and Joe that prompts Joe to run after her, furthering their relationship within the film. Or a club scene can just be for pure vanity a la American Hustle and Black Swan.
So what makes a good club scene? A convincing and realistic sound is first. Clubs are loud and overstimulating. I want to be overstimulated while watching. I want to be fully immersed! I'm looking specifically for diegetic sound within a club scene; sound within the scene that the characters can hear and react to. Even better if the scene has that "in club echo" that puts your ears right in the moment. A great atmosphere/environment/setting also takes paramount. Lights! Glitter! A club set in a cave? Set in the middle of Paris? A dive somewhere in Scotland? Make it memorable. Also - heavy, heavy dancing. Get the energy moving. And, of course, a kick ass song or two.
So what makes a good club scene? A convincing and realistic sound is first. Clubs are loud and overstimulating. I want to be overstimulated while watching. I want to be fully immersed! I'm looking specifically for diegetic sound within a club scene; sound within the scene that the characters can hear and react to. Even better if the scene has that "in club echo" that puts your ears right in the moment. A great atmosphere/environment/setting also takes paramount. Lights! Glitter! A club set in a cave? Set in the middle of Paris? A dive somewhere in Scotland? Make it memorable. Also - heavy, heavy dancing. Get the energy moving. And, of course, a kick ass song or two.
Sound designer: Ren Klyce
Soundtrack: "Sound of Violence" by Dennis de Laat
One of the best clubs scenes (possibly ever?) is from The Social Network. What makes the scene memorable is the use of sound. Watch any other club scene with heavy dialogue and it sounds as if the music has been turned down and the characters are talking in a quiet room. Not here. Director David Fincher scrapped sound designer Ren Klyce's original take on the scene for a more authentic club sound. After watching Klyce's first edit with the music turned down Fincher responded with "...it doesn't feel realistic to me, it doesn't feel like I'm in a club; I just feel like I'm watching a movie". So instead of turning the music down as the actors start speaking, the volume stays the same and your brain is left to focus harder on the dialogue as it automatically lowers the music in the background. Through some sound distortion of Dennis de Laat's "Sound of Violence" and audio from the scene, the scene explodes with energy. The actors have to speak as if they're competing with nonexistent sound in the takes but it's well worth it in the end: a realistic and iconic club scene.
2. Black Swan, 2011, Darren Aronofsky
Sound designer: Brian Emrich
Soundtrack: "Don't Think" by The Chemical Brothers
In Darren Aronofsky's Black Swan, the club scene serves as a physical manifestation of Nina (Natalie Portman) giving up control over herself and her life's work. Like The Social Network, the club scene furthers the story line and acts sort of like a jumping off point for Nina's hedonistic and uninhibited new look on life. It's also a bad ass use of strobe lighting and one of The Chemical Brothers' best songs. Using a club scene as a metaphor for the protagonist's inner demons is unconventional but I love it. Typically dance floors, clubs, electronic music, and drugs all bring to mind ideas of selfishness, ferality, loss of control and morals, and other synonyms of chaos. As Nina descends further into her role as the swan queen, she descends further into the darker side of herself, as depicted in the images that flash before our eyes. The use of a serpent-like green and a blood red also enhances Nina's darker side.
3. American Hustle, 2013, David O. Russell
Sound designer: John Ross
Soundtrack: "I Feel Love" by Donna Summer
One of the best clubs scenes (possibly ever?) is from The Social Network. What makes the scene memorable is the use of sound. Watch any other club scene with heavy dialogue and it sounds as if the music has been turned down and the characters are talking in a quiet room. Not here. Director David Fincher scrapped sound designer Ren Klyce's original take on the scene for a more authentic club sound. After watching Klyce's first edit with the music turned down Fincher responded with "...it doesn't feel realistic to me, it doesn't feel like I'm in a club; I just feel like I'm watching a movie". So instead of turning the music down as the actors start speaking, the volume stays the same and your brain is left to focus harder on the dialogue as it automatically lowers the music in the background. Through some sound distortion of Dennis de Laat's "Sound of Violence" and audio from the scene, the scene explodes with energy. The actors have to speak as if they're competing with nonexistent sound in the takes but it's well worth it in the end: a realistic and iconic club scene.
2. Black Swan, 2011, Darren Aronofsky
Sound designer: Brian Emrich
Soundtrack: "Don't Think" by The Chemical Brothers
In Darren Aronofsky's Black Swan, the club scene serves as a physical manifestation of Nina (Natalie Portman) giving up control over herself and her life's work. Like The Social Network, the club scene furthers the story line and acts sort of like a jumping off point for Nina's hedonistic and uninhibited new look on life. It's also a bad ass use of strobe lighting and one of The Chemical Brothers' best songs. Using a club scene as a metaphor for the protagonist's inner demons is unconventional but I love it. Typically dance floors, clubs, electronic music, and drugs all bring to mind ideas of selfishness, ferality, loss of control and morals, and other synonyms of chaos. As Nina descends further into her role as the swan queen, she descends further into the darker side of herself, as depicted in the images that flash before our eyes. The use of a serpent-like green and a blood red also enhances Nina's darker side.
3. American Hustle, 2013, David O. Russell
Sound designer: John Ross
Soundtrack: "I Feel Love" by Donna Summer
What! A! Hot! Scene! This is what my 70s disco dream are made of: a slinky dress, big hair, lots of makeup, magenta lights hitting a disco ball, and a gorgeous dance partner (what can't Bradley Cooper do?!) This is what I have categorized as the vanity club scene. It's just for glitz and fun: "okay, baby, let's go dancing". I've always wanted a disco-themed birthday party and I just might have to use the energy from this scene as inspiration when the time comes.
4. Bend it Like Beckham, 2002, Gurinder Chadha
Sound designer: Bryan Bowen
Soundtrack: "I Turn to You" by Melanie C
This is pure early millennium energy. We're talking Sporty Spice's best solo venture, a lamé scarf as a shirt on Keira Knightley, a 25 year old Jonathan Rhys-Meyers grooving on the dance floor. They're on a football-free venture in a foreign country and there's sexual tension between girl and boy and girl. Compared to The Social Network's club scene sound design, this one is at the opposite end of the spectrum. But I don't need fancy editing to enjoy three friends dancing along to Melanie C's "I Turn to You" to be impressed. I love the overview of the dance floor and watching Jules, Joe, and Jess be a part of the actual crowd. Part of a good club scene is how immersed the audience can get and this one lets all us live vicariously.
5. John Wick, 2014, Chad Stahelski
Sound designer: Alan Rankin
Soundtrack: "Think" by Kaleida, "The Red Circle" by Le Castle Vania
I hesitated keeping this scene from John Wick on my list of best club scenes (so far). Only because half of it takes place in an underground pool lounge and half on an actual dance floor. But the energy is just too good (and I suppose the underground lounge is a VIP club). The scene is one of many in the film that showcase John Wick's (literal) ass-kicking talent, but enhanced with lights and electronic music. I like when films feature a moment in a club that doesn't necessarily belong in a club. Exhibit A: an assassin mowing down tens of Russian bodyguards and chasing the son of his most precious target. The out of place nature makes is sexier, you've got to agree.
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